our boy Terence hits the nail on the head
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Corcoran: Toronto street-food project half-baked at best
Terence Corcoran, National Post
Published: Friday, November 23, 2007
TORONTO -Toronto, idea butcher for the world. City of crumbling infrastructure, nutbar politicians and an ongoing fiscal crisis, has another attribute too seldom recognized. City officials have a singular ability to take damn good ideas and turn them into really dumb politicized nightmares.
The latest damn good idea was to open the city's street-corner food carts, now monopolized by hot dog merchants, to the four culinary corners of the world. The tantalizing image, full of free-market potential, was that of an urban foodscape of colourful stands selling the world's culture to go: samosas and pizza, fresh fruit, jerk chicken, tofu dishes, Singapore noodles and, who knows, maybe a Parisian crepe or two.
Making this street-food bonanza possible was a provincial regulatory change removing prohibitions that limited street vendor options to, approximately, hot dogs, hot dogs and veggie dogs, washed down with a Pepsi.
The hot dogs are among the best in the world, in my opinion, toasted and grilled, and way better than the steamed mushy things available in New York. Still, a modern multicultural city like Toronto needs variety, change, all the things deregulated free enterprise can bring.
Then came the really dumb political idea. The regulation opening up the Toronto vending-cart market has been in place since last August. But no vendors have appeared. Toronto streets remain samosa-free -- thanks to City Hall, which has put the whole idea on hold while officials develop the "Toronto Street Food Project Plan."
John Filion, city council member from Ward 23, in outer Willowdale, and chairman of the city's board of health, has a plan. He wants to set up a city-owned vending cart cartel, with the city buying carts and leasing 30 of them to vendors.
The tentacles of planning, once in control, never let go. The objective now is to have the carts in place by next spring. But first there needs to be an amendment to the city's capital budget. Then the city borrows $700,000 to buy the carts. Then the carts need to be designed, meaning -- in true Soviet fashion -- that one cart must fit all, whether it's cooking pizzas, flipping burgers, tossing noodle dishes, heating up chicken balls or cooling fresh juice.
The initial design, just released, looks particularly inflexible, and certainly would be a hard place to be keep food warm and the owner from freezing to death in winter.
Then there's the political issue of who gets the carts. One cart per person, says Mr. Filion, so as to avoid "any of those cart conglomerates that exist in New York City." The carts themselves are to be owned as public/non-profit assets, directly or indirectly, then leased.
The plan, prepared by city staff, complete with funding calculations and five-year payback mumbo jumbo, was signed off by Joe Pennachette, deputy city manger and chief financial officer. In person, he seems like such a sensible man. The plan includes the usual hypothetical projections on revenues and expenses per vending cart -- as if the city's planners can have any possible knowledge of what's involved in running a streetfood cart.
Toronto is crawling with culinary genius, upscale and down-market producers of fabulous food for all tastes. It has a world-famous food service college. Maybe thousands of people with skill and imagination are itching to start up a new food business, even a chain, based on the corner vending system. What does it matter if conglomerates are formed?
And what's wrong with just letting entrepreneurs develop their own designs? By setting up a city-controlled business, on top of the licensing controls, Toronto risks turning the great food-cart market revolution into another policy planning disaster.
But this is typical Toronto city activity, the work of idea butchers and fool makers. The vending cart is a micro version of another great idea, the revitalization of historic Union Station.
It must be 20 years now since they started talking about doing something with the station. Nothing happens because city officials -- obsessed with preventing private enterprise -- cannot let go, cannot stop their meddling, controlling and destructive ways.
As it looks now, Toronto's new street-food vision will not happen, certainly not by next spring. It should be happening right now.