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T.O. 's water 3rd best in taste test

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T.O. 's water 3rd best in taste test

City judged against 10 U.S. entrants

Jun 26, 2007 04:30 AM
Jennifer Bain
Food Editor

Toronto tap water has won third place in a blind North American taste test.

Sure, we lost to Oklahoma City and a county in Kansas, but these aren't bad bragging rights considering it was the first time we'd entered the Best of the Best Water Taste Test.

"That's excellent – I feel great," Patrick Newland, director of water treatment and supply for the city of Toronto, said yesterday. "This gives us an opportunity to compete at a different level at other shows."

But he had an important caveat: "Our water is second to none. We're very lucky here in Toronto."

So what does a winning water taste like? In a word, nothing.

Great tap water should be "clear, crystal and have a nice taste without having any flavours associated with it," judge and emcee Prof. Mel Suffet of the UCLA's School of Public Health said yesterday.

The liquid contestants were couriered or hand-delivered to Toronto for the American Water Works Association annual conference at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre. Ten waters had already won U.S. regional competitions. As host city, Toronto got the 11th spot.

Five judges (including me) privately tasted the "blind" samples – knowing them only as numbers 1 through 11 – and at room temperature. It was a cinch to eliminate six for smelling like chlorine or tasting salty, earthy or musty.

Five waters (the more neutral of the lot) moved on to the finals, where they were relabelled A through E. We tasted and scored these live in front of a crowd of curious conference-goers.

Like a wine tasting, we sniffed and swirled before sipping and swirling some more. Unlike a wine tasting, we didn't get to spit anything out.

"I'm drowning," confided judge Djanette Khiari, project manager with the American Water Works Association Research Foundation. (She chairs the taste and odour committee.)

"Good" water got marks of one to four. "Better" water got five to eight. The "best" water got nine or 10. Our quest was to pinpoint the most tasteless and odourless water, but we were encouraged to let personal preference drive our rankings since this was a fun (and not deadly serious) competition.

Suffet and Khiari, along with California environmental consultant Michael McGuire, were considered properly trained technical judges. They have even co-created a "Drinking Water Taste and Odour Wheel." Mill St. Brewery brewmaster Joel Manning and I – both with jobs that demand plenty of tasting – stepped in as local judges.

Pros or not, we had virtually no problem agreeing on who the finalists should be.

"Beer's mostly water," Manning said.

"We take Toronto municipal water, filter it, treat it and make beer out of it." He wasn't sure that he could pick out Toronto's water from the group of 11, but described it as "fairly chlorinated."

It turns out that I put a star beside water number seven and gave it a perfect score during the first round. Taste test organizer Kylah Hedding later revealed that #7 was Toronto's finest. For round two, however, Toronto's water was relabelled "water B" and I thought I detected chlorine so gave it a lower score.

Organizers had only planned to release the first-place winner, as in the contest's previous two years. But in the frenzy of the moment they named second and third place winners after tallying the scores.

So what makes Oklahoma City's water better than ours?

McGuire described it to the audience as "really refreshing" and "terrific." I had to admit to the emcee that I couldn't come up with anything to say to capture the water's screaming neutrality.

"That's good," Suffet replied. "When you have nothing to say about a water, that's good."

jbain@thestar.ca
 
Tap water is great. All the paranoia that has been drummed up to sell bottled water is the worst demagoguery I hope to see in a western liberal democracy.
 
our water smells too much like chlorine and i don't like the idea of forced medication with the flouride.

i prefer our tap water passed through a brita filter Vs. bottled water anyday.
 
Kansas eh? That damn Wicked Witch sure knows how to work wonder...I mean, water...
 
That was an isolated incident that had to do with an incompetent small town bureaucrat with no formal education in water treatment running both hydro and water simulatneously while stocking the lab fridge with beer. I worked alongside a chemist at a municipal water treatment plant and Ontario's standards are very rigorous and not cheap to maintain. I doubt that many of the smaller bottled water companies have the resources to conduct the level of testing that we had to do on a regular basis. Just like fire fighters answering false alarms, I had to rush out with my field gear every time some irate citizen complained of his water "smelling funny". Will your bottled water company do that for you?

Just like when you fly on a plane, you put your safety in the hands of professionals and you have to be confident that they have a firm moral grounding and know what they're doing. Of course, who's to say that's any different from the people who run bottled water companies?
 
The only bottled water up to Ontario's strict standards is Dasani and Aquafina, if only because you are drinking heavily marketed and marked up Peel Region tap water.

I don't understand why people choose to drink that stuff. If you really want extra-filtered tap water, buy a Brita filter or any of its knock-offs. If everyone knew that it was tap water, then there'd be no profit from paranoia, would there?

I'd much rather drink tap water than "spring" water from the water table of major agricultural areas of Ontario, like Puslinch Township (Aberfoyle/Nestle).
 
Even filters are for wimps. I'll take it straight. The aftereffects are worse from a Taco Bell meal, anyway
 
I heard that the competition was unfair because the winner was from a groundwater source that doesn't really get alot of chlorine while Toronto's water coming from Lake Ontario as a surface water tends to get a bit more attention chlorine wise in its treatment process.

Agree with others that regulated tap water is way safer than bottled water!
 

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