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Condo Upgrades

Does anyone have any idea how much it costs to install the so called "mini split ductless heat pump (AC & heatings)" system? I am thinking of replacing my old furnace with this. Around 15K BTU is enough.

I got one quote for a whopping $15,000, which I think is insane. I did some research and the heat pump itself only costs less than $2000 if I buy it online myself.
http://www.nextag.com/ductless-mini-split-heat-pump/stores-html

Would appreciate if someone knows anything about it or give me a referral.
 
Does anyone have any idea how much it costs to install the so called "mini split ductless heat pump (AC & heatings)" system? I am thinking of replacing my old furnace with this. Around 15K BTU is enough.

I got one quote for a whopping $15,000, which I think is insane. I did some research and the heat pump itself only costs less than $2000 if I buy it online myself.
http://www.nextag.com/ductless-mini-split-heat-pump/stores-html

Would appreciate if someone knows anything about it or give me a referral.



1) the ones available online typically are for US and not made for CDN climates
2) are you sure 15K BTU is sufficient for your heating purposes ... how big is the area? only one room and not the rest of the space or is it COMPLETELY open concept?
3) $15K is crazy unless it's the Mits Zuba system and you're getting multiple heads. for that price might as well stick with forced air since you already have the ducting from the old furnace and it'll cost much less.
 
1) the ones available online typically are for US and not made for CDN climates
2) are you sure 15K BTU is sufficient for your heating purposes ... how big is the area? only one room and not the rest of the space or is it COMPLETELY open concept?
3) $15K is crazy unless it's the Mits Zuba system and you're getting multiple heads. for that price might as well stick with forced air since you already have the ducting from the old furnace and it'll cost much less.

thanks cdr,

1) I know what you mean. But there seems to be some models for colder climates, and can work below -20 or something as far as I know. Is there any other difference in terms of regulation?
2) it is a 650 1 br condo. The heating requirement is low because the building is heated in the common areas and also well insulated. For example, the temperate inside almost never drops below 18C no matter how cold it is outside, when my furnace is not on.
3) I won't consider 15k either as it is simply crazy... which is why I need to ask around. I do want two heads though in the two rooms
 
thanks cdr,

1) I know what you mean. But there seems to be some models for colder climates, and can work below -20 or something as far as I know. Is there any other difference in terms of regulation?
2) it is a 650 1 br condo. The heating requirement is low because the building is heated in the common areas and also well insulated. For example, the temperate inside almost never drops below 18C no matter how cold it is outside, when my furnace is not on.
3) I won't consider 15k either as it is simply crazy... which is why I need to ask around. I do want two heads though in the two rooms

1) yes, there are models that work below -20 C but the heating curve drops dramatically.
again, the ones on the internet are usually for US climate which is more temperate than ours, but you might be able to buy their 'cold climate' package to retrofit the unit.

2) since it's a condo, will your BOD allow you to drill into the building to hook up the unit and have lines exposed?

afaik, inside condo units they don't use a furnace, but a heat pump to distribute the heat /cold air generated from the main units for the entire building, which works similarly (cost slightly 10-15% more), but there is a difference.

3) for what you're looking for it might cost around $6 - 6.5K + taxes installed ... but again i think you're looking for the wrong thing
 
afaik, inside condo units they don't use a furnace, but a heat pump to distribute the heat /cold air generated from the main units for the entire building

This is generally true, but not always. I lived in a place a couple of years ago that had its own self contained AC/Furnace.
 
would anyone like to share their $$$ experience of replacing carpets with laminate, I am reading almost every where that upgrades from builders are expensive and i am trying to put a estimated number in my mind. Say i have 2 rooms of 10' by 10' - what would an average builder charge to have laminate installed in these 2 rooms instead of carpet. Any and all experience sharing would be great :)
 
At what cost would it be worth to get builder to put laminate instead of carpet in room (for instance) of size 10' x 10 ' ? I am stuck in a similar situation and given that builder upgrades are expensive, I am thinking how much do builders usually charge for putting laminate in such sized rooms ?
 
At what cost would it be worth to get builder to put laminate instead of carpet in room (for instance) of size 10' x 10 ' ? I am stuck in a similar situation and given that builder upgrades are expensive, I am thinking how much do builders usually charge for putting laminate in such sized rooms ?


i think that would be dependent on the quality/price of the product you're looking to install as prices vary considerably for laminate from $1-5 retail psf plus the additional cost for underlay ($1-2 retail i think). if you're paying more than $1,000 for a 10' x 10' room i think you're being gouged. ideally it should be around $500.

but your main problem will be matching but at least it's laminate vs hardwood which would be dependent upon the staining.
 
if you're paying more than $1,000 for a 10' x 10' room i think you're being gouged.

Thank You CDR - that certainly gives me an idea of what i should be comparing it against. I absolutely agree - quality will primarily dictate the cost - I hope it wont be a crazy 2-3K they would be asking me for the upgrade.
 
Plan to install motorized window covering at my new condo.
I 've asked the builder to install additional oulet, but was told it's already late.

Lithium battery power seems to be an option, but I'd prefer electrical power.
Any thoughts about having using lithium battery power?
It would be still doable to install additional outlets to use electrical power?
Your help is very much appreciated
 
People are right that most upgrades are a rip off. Its better to do it on your own. Whats funny is that, if you ask a builder not to install certain things (leave out backsplash) , they will say no.

Things though to definitely think about upgrading from phase 1 (rip off or not) are

1. Laminate or Hardwood flooring throughout. Entrance and any other flooring upgrades - Try to do this after everything is built = lots of dust
2. Kitchen counter upgrade
3. Kitchen cabinet uppers. - Structural change near impossible after everything built
4. Bigger fridge
5. Tub to Shower
6. Pot lights
 
IMO, I think you should only upgrade things that you can't easily upgrade after possession. For example, most condos have concrete ceilings, therefore installing potlights after possession is impossible without being creative. Other things like electrical/cable/Internet outlets may be difficult to do. Personally I'm trying to get the builder from putting that decrepit popcorn ceiling stuff and leaving the ceiling bare such that I can hire someone to put up smooth ceilings.

If you are planning on changing out cabinetry and counter surfaces/backsplash it may be worthwhile to ask them to either not install these components such that you can hire a third party to install. Or ask them to leave the materials in your unit without installing it. Things like backsplash replacement is a PITA to redo. This will enable you to source out a cheap third party install and open up your options with picking materials/design.

Of course, what you can and can't do will be dictated in your contract. Start off by knowing what options you can work with first.
 
There is one other consideration which must be taken with a certain amount of caution. If one say puts in a kitchen after the fact and let say there is a plumbing problem, the Tarion warranty may not apply.
Just some thoughts to consider.
 
IMO, I think you should only upgrade things that you can't easily upgrade after possession. For example, most condos have concrete ceilings, therefore installing potlights after possession is impossible without being creative. Other things like electrical/cable/Internet outlets may be difficult to do. Personally I'm trying to get the builder from putting that decrepit popcorn ceiling stuff and leaving the ceiling bare such that I can hire someone to put up smooth ceilings.

If you are planning on changing out cabinetry and counter surfaces/backsplash it may be worthwhile to ask them to either not install these components such that you can hire a third party to install. Or ask them to leave the materials in your unit without installing it. Things like backsplash replacement is a PITA to redo. This will enable you to source out a cheap third party install and open up your options with picking materials/design.

Of course, what you can and can't do will be dictated in your contract. Start off by knowing what options you can work with first.

Have them plaster the ceiling but not finish it. It is easy enough to have a taper (finisher) come in and trowel a smooth finish once the plaster is up, but not once the ~ shudder ~ popcorn is up. (there should be a building code ordinance against that stuff on the grounds of cruelty to animals). This will be cheaper that having someone come in and cover the concrete entirely, and definitely cheaper than 'repairing' the popcorn treatment.
Get the builder to do as much as possible, but not too much.
 
thanks for the tip neubilder.
i haven't been lucky so far because the builder (Canderel Stoneridge) is not allowing any 'upgrades' or subtle changes to the units. This includes leaving the ceiling untreated, unfortunately. Their rationale is that because this condo project is so large, it would delay the project for occupancy if they allow custom requests.

This was essentially my only request and I feel like my request is valid and easy to do. Once that stucco is fired onto the ceiling, it is expensive (not to mention extremely dirty) to take down. The other alternative is to put up drywall on the ceilings and plaster over that, but that reduces the overall height. Very disappointed with the builder and this decision...
 

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