Review: Joy Thai
Dec. 30, 2005
AMY PATAKI
On my days off, there is no reason for me to eat Thai food anywhere other than at Joy Thai (3192 Yonge St., 416-487-5144). Nothing else I've come across professionally compares to the cooking of Surachat Kumphol, who used to cook for the Thai royal family in Bangkok.
Here the kitchen knows how to balance sweet, salty, hot and sour, the key to Thai cooking. Mango salad ($6.95), spurred to greatness by chili, lime and palm sugar, is an exemplar of the dish. Same with butter-tender chicken satays ($6.95) and the creamy coconut richness of panang nuer red curry beef ($9.95). There may not be a lot of shrimp in the garlic shrimp ($10.95), but there's plenty of heady garlic. Double your order for the sauce alone.
The Lawrence Park restaurant isn't much to look at, but does a brisk business in takeout. The cold spring rolls ($6.95) quickly sell out; regulars know to place their orders early. That's what I did after our family decided to celebrate this most recent Jewish new year with takeout Thai food instead of the usual large, home-cooked meal. (Who needs the hassle?) We ushered in year 5766 with everything mentioned above plus garlicky glass noodles, ginger chicken, pad thai and steaming bowls of jasmine rice. It was voted one of the best holiday dinners ever.
