Some interesting commentary from Grant van Gameren:
Grant van Gameren brought oomph to Little Italy with Bar Isabel, Bar Raval, the Michelin-starred Quetzal and now Martine's joins the scene.
streetsoftoronto.com
“COVID was hard for me, man. Laying off 400 staff, fighting with landlords, selling my house in Toronto. To be honest, coming back has taken years,” says van Gameren, whose eleven revenue streams include luminary hot spots
Bar Raval, Bar Isabel, Quetzal and El Rey, three
Harry’s locations and an Airbnb on his vegetable farm in Prince Edward County.
Alongside Jen Agg, van Gameren was responsible for launching the Black Hoof on Dundas Street in 2008, and his roller-coaster ride through commerce and cooking has produced some of the city’s best bites, biggest fallouts and legendary nights on the town. You don’t need to watch The Bear to know the restaurant business is dicey — big egos, huge overhead, tight margins, and that’s during usual times. The pandemic was unusual times and though everyone was affected, few businesses dissolved overnight like restaurants, and Grant van Gameren owned or co-owned nearly a dozen of them (and a catering company too). Talented, irascible, famous, the 42-year-old dad says he’s opening Martine’s in the old Woodlot space on Palmerston because he believes dining in Toronto could use a course correction.
“I’m old. I’ve done this dozens of times, but food has become so complicated over the years — this is is the opposite,” says van Gameren, who opened Martine’s in the building he also rents for Bar Raval, has chef Luke Haines in charge of both kitchens and his partner, Hailey Burke, managing both rooms.
“Luke is chef de cuisine at Bar Raval and extremely talented, but I told him, ‘If I give you an ingredient and it takes you more than three minutes to come up with a dish, you’re probably overthinking it,” says van Gameren, who grows the vegetables for Martine’s at his home garden in Prince Edward County, sometimes going from ground to plate in a day. “From the Black Hoof to everything I’ve done, food is only one part of what we’re selling. The experience has to be awesome, and if we get accolades like a Best New Restaurants’ list or a Michelin star, amazing — but it ain’t paying our bills.”
Oyster mushrooms with razor clams and wild leeks is the Martine’s dish that has tongues wagging. And the after-party for Canada’s Top 100 Restaurants, “reminded me of the Black Hoof days,” says van Gameren. When chefs crowded into his tight new space, it was an affirmation that Toronto’s original cooking influencer still has support from inside the biz.
“It’s never been about the money. It’s about: what do we want to do? We can make economical sense of it later,” van Gameren says.
We sampled his branzino, tuna butter with turnip and radishes and skate wing in an amatriciana sauce that was tangy, crisp, simple and sweet.
“What’s important is that we’re doing food that we like and understand and can evolve frequently so people will come back and, because of it, keep us in business.”