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Globe: Not your mother's Niagara Falls

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Not your mother's Niagara Falls
Wolfgang Puck is here. So is LL Cool J and Linda Lundstrom. With hotels, eateries and boutiques springing up, the 'honeymoon capital' is trading tackiness for cachet
DEIRDRE KELLY

NIAGARA FALLS, ONT. -- When the Toronto-based Kontent Group went looking for a cool locale in which to launch Sir, its new Canadian men's fashion magazine, CEO and creative director Michael King focused on Niagara Falls as the venue for a lavish party for 40 style-savvy guests.

"It was very clear to us 12 months ago that Niagara was on the cusp of cool," King says. "It's why we wanted to be there."

He says he was drawn to the town's "new energy," embodied by the spate of upscale development, including the swank billion-dollar Fallsview Casino Resort where the Sir party took place last fall.

"Niagara isn't the shy little country girl your mom and dad knew," says King, who with Geoffrey Dawe publishes the trend-conscious magazines Inside and FQ, as well as Sir. "She's all grown up, wearing a Dolce & Gabbana dress, and ready to party."

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Culture and coolness are the new buzzwords around the Falls. They ring particularly loud at Avaia, a spectacular $10-million equestrian-based act created by the newly formed Cirque Niagara in association with Russia's famed Kantemirov circus family, who specialize in Cossack trick riding. It runs until Oct. 8 under the new $1.3-million Celestial Palace tent built to hold 1,500 people at a time at Rapidsview Park, opposite Marineland.

And the buzz will get louder still when Fuego!, Carmen Mota's flamenco show, arrives direct from Spain on Aug. 2.

While it may not be on every hipsters' to-do list, this summer's lineup at the Fallsview's Avalon Ballroom is a who's who of crooners and rockers: Elvis Costello, George Thorogood, Julio Iglesias, and Mr. Vegas himself, Wayne Newton.

Ottawa native Paul Anka was the first to play the Avalon when it opened in 2004, and he has since been spreading the word that the venue is state-of-the-art. "I love it because it is unique," he says. "I love the people, and mostly I love being back in Canada."

Tony Bennett, who played the Avalon in June at the beginning of the season, concurs that the new Niagara has a certain cachet. "The Avalon is one of the best new rooms," Bennett says. "Everyone seems to care about it. A very relaxing and very cool place."

Swank hotels, restaurants, boutiques and entertainment are turning the Falls into an overnight destination as much as a day trip, Tourism Niagara spokeswoman Carrie Kormos says. "It's about extending people's stay, making them want to come for more than the waters but for the food, the shopping, the entertainment," Kormos explains. "Now, there's a more adult experience to the Falls than there was before. It's a lot more sophisticated."

At present, four million people visit the Falls each year. By 2016, if development keeps pace with demand, the projection is for 30 million annual visitors.

According to Fallsview spokesman Greg Medulun, "The new Niagara Falls is now a guys' getaway, it's now a girls' getaway. It's a special-occasion town at a level that is more than just 'Honeymoon Capital of the World.' " These views run contrary to those recently voiced by local historian Paul Gromosiak in the PBS special Niagara Falls, aired on June 21. He called the Canadian border town "a 21st-century sideshow," in reference, no doubt, to the gaudy attractions lining gadget- and gewgaw-crazed Clifton Hill, home of the House of Frankenstein, Dracula Castle and, well, you may have been there, seen that, bought the T-shirt.

Clifton Hill is still going strong, but, Medulun says, "that's a stereotype the new Niagara Falls is trying to move away from."

Eclipsing the theme-park aspect of the town are pleasure domes of glass and marble that are part of a $2-billion redevelopment project aimed at increasing tourism expenditure to $2.7-billion next year, up from $1.8-billion in 2001.

The catalyst for change has been Casino Niagara. Since its opening in 1996, overnight stays jumped from an estimated 2.9 million to 3.8 million in 2001. That number is expected to top 4.3 million next year.

Tony businesses were quick to follow Casino Niagara's lead. Chip wagons made room for a Wolfgang Puck restaurant franchise. Then there's the recently opened Dragonfly, a 12,000-square-foot Asian-themed nightclub with dragon and terra-cotta warrior statuary and a 1,250-square-foot ceiling that lights up and pulses to the music.

Toronto club impresario Charles Khabouth, who created Dragonfly from custom-made bars, flooring and fabrics imported from China, says it's the first real nightclub in Niagara Falls, and "the most beautiful in North America, by far."

Even Khabouth is surprised to see something this vibrant in a town he once left for dead. "The last thing I ever wanted to do was go to Niagara Falls," he says. "But I think the new casino has potential, and I think Niagara Falls in the next two years will change quite a bit. It'll be where everyone wants to go."

The "new casino" is the Fallsview resort and gaming complex. Dragonfly is situated inside its glass-and-chrome-domed complex, modelled on the belle-époque Galleria in Milan, and next to the resort's five-star restaurant 17 Noir, whose interior is as black as the roulette table that inspired its design.

Against this inky backdrop, the Sir party unfolded, as did the magazine's fall fashion shoot. Through the windows was a dramatic view of the Falls, mist rising high over the thundering roar of the water. It's an awesome sight that never fails to impress (despite Oscar Wilde's declaration that it is the second-most-disappointing thing a woman experiences on her wedding night).

Which brings us back to the honeymoon capital. The Falls are said to emit an "ionic force" that serves as a natural aphrodisiac. (For once, it's true what they say: There's something in the water.)

But in the newfangled Niagara, is there room for an old-fashioned honeymoon? Niagara Tourism's Kormos says on-site nuptials are actually being encouraged by means of a new "upscale" wedding chapel launched last Valentine's Day. At least one bride was serenaded by blues giant B.B. King, playing the Avalon, when he found out she was a fan. "It's us putting a unique spin on the honeymoon capital idea," Kormos says.
 
Now if they could only extend some of this to the "real" downtown Niagara Falls.
 
Niagra Falls has a downtown? I've been there many times and I've never seen it. I've always wondered where the real city was, where do Niagra Falls' inhabitants go to shop, walk, eat, hang out and have fun? It's very strange. You can only take so much of Clifton Hill and malls YIKES!
 
Niagra Falls has a downtown? I've been there many times and I've never seen it. I've always wondered where the real city was, where do Niagra Falls' inhabitants go to shop, walk, eat, hang out and have fun?
Unfortunately not in the "real downtown" either.

If you've ever taken a VIA train to Niagara Falls (or beyond), then you are basically on the edge of the old downtown.
 
I've never minded so much that Niagara Falls' old downtown isn't particularly successful, since one busy pedestrian neighbourhood in a city that size is already a fairly impressive feat.
 
My only worry about Niagara is that while the casino and surrounding new hotels seem new now, the architecture is so bland and will surely start to suffer in the next 10 years. They really have to step up and produce some quality there or else its just going to become Niagara of old again.
 
Although, it could always replicate Las Vegas and simply re-build every hotel every 20 years.
 
On Saturday some neighbours and I drove to Hillebrand Estates, a few miles from the Falls. We met their friends, one of whom has his paintings reproduced on the new wine labels, for lunch. The restaurant's pretty good. Later, we sampled some icewine ... and snuck a few grapes off the vines.

On the way down we passed signs for different wineries - I've not seen bottles with the names of many of them on. I wonder if they sell their grapes to bigger concerns?

Some of the industrial architecture we spotted en route is fascinating - big buildings in the middle of the countryside, with pipes and tubes and chimneys and weird bits of metal sticking out all over the place. No idea what stuff they produce.

Then back to town for a 50th birthday party. I gave a "starter-set" of my home made 2006 vintage jams.
 
Many of those plants are likely be old canneries. Someone else here might know for sure.
 
BB, if the sign along the road said "winery" then you were likely passing one of over 5 dozen establishments now bottling their own in Niagara. Every year for the past several at least half a dozen new ones have opened their doors and many are able to sell their entire stock without selling any at the LCBO - there is that much wine touring now, and that many restaurants looking for good small-label Ontario wines to feature as exclusives or rarities on their wine lists. Many of these concerns used to sell their grapes to the larger labels; the ones that still do are signed as a vineyard.

I have an example of the power of wine tourism in Ontario now, although it is related to the even newer wine-growing region of Prince Edward County:

On the August long weekend a friend and I spent three days enjoying the County's fresh produce, wines, ciders, and beaches. On Saturday we found a tiny new winery called Norman Hardie after its owner, and headed in to try the vino. The place was small enough so that instead of finding a decorated tasting room outfitted with a counter, coolers, and a restaurant, and staffed with a brigade of servers ready to pour us samples and sell us a case of our favourite, we walked into storeroom filled with pallets and cartons, shouted 'hello!', and were eventually greeted by Hardie himself.

Hardie's three varietals have all garnered attention, but none more than his Pinot Noir, so we wanted to try it. We were too late however; he had sold out of his stock, but told us that we could look for it at some area restaurants.

That night we rolled into the superb Harvest in Picton. Hardie's Pinot was on the wine list at $85 a bottle, their most expensive Canadian, and a very high price for a Canadian Red. With that price emphasizing that this must be a great wine, we ordered a bottle, and were told by our waitress 'I'm sorry, we've just sold our last bottle a half hour ago.' Hmm.

For Sunday dinner we patronized another excellent restaurant, this time the Carriage House in Bloomfield. Hardie's Pinot was again their most expensive Canadian offering, but here was priced at $78. Happy to find it $7 cheaper, we placed an order and were told 'I'm sorry, our last five bottles were sold tonight.' Humph.

Before leaving the county on our way home on Monday we stopped in at Hardie's again to tell him that we had chased his wine around the county to no avail, hoping he would take pity and say to us 'oh, I suppose I have one bottle stashed away that I could sell to you'. Instead, Hardie listed off a number of establishments in Toronto that stocked his increasingly rare Pinot - Splendido, Canoe, Scaramouche, Edward Levesque, Boba, Jamie Kennedy - a short list of some of the best places in town.

Two weeks later we ended up on Church Street at Jamie Kennedy Restaurant, having been assured when we made our reservation that there would be a bottle of the Pinot waiting for us, one of six bottles remaining in their cellar. Like the two meals in the County, the dinner at Kennedy was delicious, but this time the meal was accompanied by the Hardie Pinot, and at only $56 a bottle, which we were glad to have found it at. It was a very nice wine, but in the end we enjoyed the chase more than the catch.

So the moral of the story is:

Yes, there are lots of little wineries out there that you've never heard of, many of which make very nice wines, some of which are sought after by a large enough group of oenophiles, who locally can force the price to skyrocket, while as part of the greater whole the wines command prices more in line with their competition. Had Hardie himself not yet been sold out of the Pinot, we would have found it more cheaply at his winery, we would have had a nice drink, but no story.

42
 
Well then, I suppose we should be grateful if we can find any of these rarer wines at all!

When I'm in England, and tell people that we produce wonderful wines in Canada, they look at me as if I'm insane. I've yet to find any of our wines in their supermarkets or wine stores, which are full to bursting with Australian and New Zealand wines.
 
On my last trip to England, while looking over the wine list and chatting with my relatives at the hotel restaurant I noted the Chilean, American, South African, and Australian wines and remarked "why don't you ever see any Canadian wines listed?". My relatives laughed... they thought I was joking.

My aunt from England/Scotland who makes a yearly trip to France to stock her wine cellar was absolutely floored by the number of vineyards and wineries during a recent trip to visit my parents' new place in Niagara-on-the-Lake. The folks quite like it down there; apparently they've gotten to know Joseph of Joseph's Estate Wines. And wine tastings are free EVERYWHERE if you're a local.
 
I'll be sure to wear muddy Wellies next time I walk into a winery.
 
...and remarked "why don't you ever see any Canadian wines listed?". My relatives laughed... they thought I was joking.

Did you also laugh when the restaurant claimed to offer gourmet British cuisine?
 
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