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Ossington

M

mpolo2

Guest
(the Toronto Star)

Not so long ago, Ossington Ave. was dowdy and crime-ridden. Now, a few entrepreneurs are helping revitalize the westerly strip.
By Christopher Hutsul
Mar. 12, 2006. 07:14 AM


In late 2003, a group of shotgun-wielding men burst into an Ossington Ave. karaoke bar and opened fire, killing twin brothers and injuring three others. Police said the shootings appeared to be gang-related. Not long after the incident, the bar closed, and yet another empty storefront scarred the crime-riddled street.

Now, 2 1/2 years later, that space has reopened as The Sparrow, a trendy Asian-fusion restaurant. Where bullets once flew, red curry lentil soup is being served to urbanites savvy enough to venture beyond Queen West.

No other space better illustrates the changing face of Ossington. Until recently, this largely derelict commercial strip — which begins at Queen St. W. and extends north to Dundas St. W. — languished in a grim cycle of crime and murder. The residents, a reluctant coupling of Portuguese and Vietnamese immigrants, lived on edge.

After every shooting, and there were plenty, resentment between the ethnic groups deepened — though most agreed that the drug trade, a racket that rarely exists within one ethnic bubble, was the real culprit. Regardless of who was responsible, the consensus was that Ossington was sick.

Then, a few years ago, the Canadians starting showing up. The Canadians, which is the term Portuguese and Vietnamese shopkeepers use for white, non-ethnic anglophones, were seeking an alternative to high-rent Queen St. W., and they chose Ossington Ave. for their boutiques, bars and galleries.

This is where, in most stories about neighbourhoods in transition, one begins to groan about gentrification. But right now, the g-word is a non-topic on Ossington. Crime is down. Sidewalk traffic is up. Stores that were once empty shells, relics of a far gone vitality, are now selling flowers or pencil drawings. Though climbing property values (the Drake Hotel-art gallery strip is just around the corner) are threatening the comfort of artists who pioneered this territory, there's an air of optimism. Some say the Canadians serve as a cultural bridge between the Portuguese and the Vietnamese people. And most people would prefer to see yuppies lurking about instead of gunmen.

Today, two Canadians are eating pad Thai at The Golden Turtle, a friendly Vietnamese restaurant at the corner of Ossington and Argyle St. (chef Susur Lee, who lives nearby, is said to be a regular). Selena and Pol Cristo-Williams, recently married, are part of a small band of entrepreneurs who are transforming the street. In 2001, Selena was forced to relocate her Queen St. W. gallery — since replaced by the Beaver Café — and chose Ossington in favour of somewhere west of the Dufferin underpass. In 2004, she and Pol converted the gallery into Sweaty Betty's, a tiny booze parlour. In November, they teamed up with chef Michael Brennan to launch The Sparrow.

"Ossington was a gamble," says Selena. "There was the violence, but there was also no walk-by traffic. You had to be a destination for people to come up here. I was just hoping that sooner or later, things would develop."

So far, the gamble has paid off. The Sparrow is one of about a dozen young businesses that are feeding off each other by bringing new visitors to the strip. In the past few years, the street has been graced by the arrival of the Yoga Space, organic eatery Get Real, the Crooked Star pub, and a handful of art galleries and vintage shops. The accidental collective is beginning to lure new bodies away from Queen's West beaten path.

Which is an accomplishment. Ossington's ramshackle southerly base is tarnished by the bunker-like façade of the Centre for Addiction and Mental Health. The area is complicated by the omnipresence of the facility's troubled, if innocuous, clients, and those who frequent the nearby University Health Network detox centre. The street is a hodgepodge of run-down Victorian commercial spaces, automotive shops, and light-industrial facilities, some of which appear to be defunct. A few years ago, a large automotive complex was demolished to make space for a large, plain townhouse complex. Though the project has enlivened the area, it's added nothing to the streetscape.

To the north, Ossington fleshes out with older, more established businesses, including the Peixaria Portugal fish market, the cozy Columbia Bakery, and the notorious Baby Dolls Strip club. At Dundas, Ossington's commercial strip comes to an abrupt end, and the street turns residential to the north.

If Ossington has a legacy, it's one of industriousness. The strip's dotted with tire shops, hardware stores and kitchen cabinet outlets. It was once home to a luggage factory. In the western alley, a Portuguese bakery hums through the night (it's a local tradition, apparently, to pick up a warm loaf on the way home from Baby Dolls).

Downtown Lumber has been a hub of activity for decades. Antonio Santos, who's worked there for nearly 30 years, likes the direction the street's going. He remembers when, in 1990, he came to work and saw a bullet hole in the window above the front door. Once again, there'd been gunplay at the gas bar across the street. He doesn't expect to see any bullets coming from those crisp new townhouses. "Now it's much better," he says. "The people are different. It's quieter."

All this is especially good for the real-estate business. A commercial space at the corner of Ossington and Humbert St. sold last week for a reported $1.1 million. Landlords have picked up on the Ossington buzz and are adjusting lease rates accordingly. James Fortier, who owns i deal coffee in Kensington Market, pounced on a space before costs became prohibitive. He expects to open his bright, spacious shop this weekend (look for artist Kelly Palmer's hand-painted wall embellishments).

"I regret not jumping in here when prices were lower," says Fortier. "I'm betting that if I'd signed on a year ago, my lease would be at least half what it is right now. The rents have doubled already."

Dani (who asked that her last name be withheld) sells flowers and antiques at Cindiloowho, and she hopes rising rents will be offset by higher margins. When she relocated to Ossington 2 1/2 years ago, her business was based on word-of-mouth as opposed to street traffic. Saturday was her slowest day of the week. All that's changed now.

"It was a vast wasteland, a dark little corner of the city waiting to be tapped into," she laughs, as Maico from Get Real drops off a snack: a sandwich topped with melted Brie.

"You hope as someone who's been here all along, that in three years you can still afford it," says Dani. "I helped develop it, and ... I hope I can grow with it."

Inside the legendary Venezia Bakery, schoolchildren line up for an after-school snack — fries and Pepsi cost only $2.25. A group of Vietnamese-Canadians huddle around a table and drink tall, sweet coffees out of Styrofoam cups. At another table sits owner Maria Caetano, and Argyle St. crossing guard Gertrude Kolthoff, who's been warming up here between shifts for 30 years (she loves the honey buns). When Maria and her husband, John, both Portuguese immigrants, took over the store from its original Italian owners in 1980, they decided to keep the name. Today, Maria is enjoying a new wave of business. She sells coffee and custard tarts to the women from the Yoga studio up the street.

"It's better since the Canadians moved in," she says. "There are good people coming in the stores."

"But I've always loved Ossington. It's a good street. Everyone always loves the first street they lived on when they first move to Canada. There's a hospital nearby, the bus, a pharmacy ... It has everything I need."

And less of what she and others don't, namely crime. Where it went exactly is up for debate. Some say it has to do with the increased pedestrian traffic: thugs, naturally, don't like an audience. Others say the drop in crime is a result of Ossington's new higher wattage streetlights — yet another deterrent to the criminal element. The city also changed the parking laws on Ossington: a permit is now required to park overnight. In other words, troublemaking outsiders are less inclined to linger.

Sgt. Daryle Gerry of 14 Division, who patrols the strip by bicycle, says the new condos have had a positive effect on the street's chemistry.

"It was notorious for the shootings in the karaoke bars — there was a Vietnamese gang atmosphere," says Gerry, who's a big fan of the chicken at Alex Rei Dos Leitoes on Ossington. "But since 2003, it's gotten a lot better. With the new condos, it seems to be uplifting. Anything like that is going to improve the area. And it's getting revamped down by Queen. There's not a lot of crime happening there now."

Seventeen-year-old Linda Nguyen, daughter of the Golden Turtle's proprietors, has a theory of her own. Linda thinks the 2003 double murder — the victims were her best friend's brothers — was a turning point for the community. That's when everyone, Vietnamese and Portuguese alike, decided that enough was enough.

"Since that incident, no one sells drugs in the alleyways," says Linda. "It's just over. Nobody wanted to be a part of that. People started watching the neighbourhood now."

No one is happier about that than Linda, who felt, growing up, that her Portuguese neighbours blamed her people for the illicit activity. She remembers hearing the accusatory whispers as she walked home from school. Linda says that with the new sense of optimism on Ossington, and with the arrival of new faces and business opportunities, there's a new levity between the ethnic groups.

"People are growing out of being racist," she says. "Now that we have people from different parts of Canada, people are walking by our restaurant and seeing that it isn't just Vietnamese people eating here, so they want to check it out. Now Portuguese people are coming into our restaurant to try our food."

"A.W.O.L. Gallery, the Crooked Star, the Sparrow, it's all great," she says. "It gives us a more diverse community instead of just being two different cultures.

Ossington Ave. finds itself in transition. Down, but never out, it's being guided into the future by an unlikely coalition of established ethnic groups and progressive entrepreneurs. The downside to all this is higher rents and real estate and, potentially, an increased corporate presence, along with an exodus of the very people responsible for its revival.

But with any luck, those who'd threaten the spirit of this blossoming strip will pull up to the foot of Ossington Ave., see the boarded-up windows and the detox centre, recall Ossington's legacy of crime, and keep on driving.

If that happens, Ossington Ave. will have dodged yet another bullet.
 
Today after work I decided to take a stroll up Ossington from Queen to see what the article was talking about - it's not a street I often wander. Though there are a few new businesses (every last one of which seemed to be mentioned in the article) and a few old ones that seem to be doing reasonably well, my overwhelming sense was one of desolation. Many storefronts were dark and had their windows plastered in newsprint and long stretches of the street seemed to be little more than auto repair shops fallen on hard times. Maybe it was the fog and gloom tinting my vision...

Do you think the article is calling the "rebirth" of Ossington a little early or is hipsterdom there to stay, Queen St. West sticking a finger north? How will this mesh with the existing Vietnamese and Portuguese businesses?

On a related note: the article mentions the CAMH hulk at Ossington's foot, which, as I saw today, is still there in much the same shape as last year and the year before. We are now four years past the completion of the CAMH revival plan (with the extension of Adelaide through the site and the replacement of the "stigmatized institution" with an "urban village" if I remember correctly). What gives? Why has nothing happened?

I would guess that the CAMH transformation could make or break the future of Ossington, closing the gap between Parkdale and Queen West in which it finds itself. But I'm not too familiar with the area. Thoughts? Opinions?
 
The only coherent commercial strip on Ossington is the one from queen to dundas. Seeing as I am involved in this area I can say that one thing that is clear is that the Ossington area has seen a huge demographic shift over the last few years. Ossington forms the backbone of a west toronto region from Davenport to Queen that has become the location of choice for twenty-something canadian born renters. While Ossington itself is nothing to write home about, the demographic change is having an increasingly visible impact on the retail and street-life scene.
 
I must say too that Parkdale in general has seen a similar influx. The area around Queen and Soraunen and up Roncesvalles could have a similar article written about it.
 
Considering the limited scope of "retail Ossington", maybe it's best to consider it as a continuum w/Dundas West. (And keep in mind those ancient maps which showed the Dundas road basically ending at Ossington and turning south to Queen...Garrison Creek hadn't been "bridged" yet...)
 
are the newcomers to ossington really all white, or is that merely an assumption on the author's part? and was the neighbourhood really so polarized between vietnamese and portuguese?
 
are the newcomers to ossington really all white, or is that merely an assumption on the author's part? and was the neighbourhood really so polarized between vietnamese and portuguese?
Lots of "whites" have been around here, including me since 1982. But there are more yuppies moving in.
 
i love the ossington/bloor area (residential anyway). Bloor at ossington dies off but the homes and side streets are all great there. i'd love to live in that area at some point. (if i can afford it)
 
Has anyone been to Delux for brunch yet? I haven't...yet. Looks hot (will it replace Bar One on my schedule?) http://www.thestar.com/entertainment/article/302940

Le Bar a Soup was disappointing--watery boring soup with a chicken sandwich which had so much dijon on it I couldn't taste the chicken or even the baguette! http://www.nowtoronto.com/issues/2007-05-17/goods_foodfeature.php

My fave spot on Ossington is Ideal Coffee--nothing beats church pews for seating:) http://www.idealcoffees.com/pages/blends.html#Anchor-Around-39842 And the coffee--although Cherry Bomb on Roncevalles is starting to impress me more--is good too.

Finally, is anyone going to the Sewing Machine "Opera/Art show" this weekend? Is it worth $20 to hear the pretentious sounds of singing and sewing? http://www.thestar.com/entertainment/WhatsOn/article/309662
 
Oz has turned into a mini version of Williamsburg. Skinny jeans, white sunglasses, vintage t shirts, airheads talking about art and interventions. I feel sorry for the residents. Unless of course they're actually Hipsters too. In which case, Oz is the new " Billyburg. " And that's the end of Oz. Until all those parents in Whitby, Winnipeg, Thunder Bay etc, stop paying the $2000.00 a month in rent for their Hipster kids.
 
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You really know hipsterism has taken over Ossington between Dundas and Queen now that the strip club Babydolls has been bought and will be turned into another trendy bar/lounge. I wanted to check it out on Saturday since I had never been there. Pity, that.
 
From today's Globe and Mail:

---------------

osscov.jpg


OSSINGTONIFICATION

The 'hood is on fire with new openings seemingly weekly, reports Tenille Bonoguore. But is it in danger of trading in its laidback vibe to become the new Entertainment District?

February 28, 2009

As the rest of the city buckles under grey economic news, it seems Ossington's star just keeps shining brighter.

A new gastro-pub called The Saint will take over the My Duyen Billiards space this April, helmed by the boys from swank King Street eateries Brant House and Brassaii. Rumours abound that the Baby Dolls strip club upstairs will become a burlesque bar, and a new charcuterie called Salt will open next door. The Painted Lady, with its New Orleans-bordello vibe, grabbed the spot next to Pizzeria Libretto. In March, one of Sweaty Betty's co-founders is opening a new bar, Red Light, nearby on Dundas with a new partner.

And, to top it all off, club king Charles Khabouth of The Guvernment was recently seen checking out the strip, which has warehouse-sized lots for lease.

The west-end neighbourhood just won't loosen its grip on the city's "next big thing" lists. But with gentrification comes the threat of homogenization, so one group of locals is launching an early strike in defence of Ossington Avenue's relatively fresh roots.

People behind the neophyte Save Ossington campaign (the official launch is likely next month) have approached local bars, asking if they would like to sell Save Ossington T-shirts.

Jason MacIsaac, owner of design shop Ministry of the Interior, said the campaign is more art project than anti-development protest. "It's a tongue-in-cheek sort of thing. We're all part of the gentrification process," Mr. MacIsaac said.

"[The campaign] is about respecting the artistic nature of the neighbourhood."

"If you're going to do a bigger place, have it speak to the people in the neighbourhood, not so much the tourists of the neighbourhood."

The good news is, that's exactly what Michael King, Marc Kyriacou, Gus Giazitzidis, Peter Tsebelis, Adam Graham and Giancarlo Spataro plan to do with their new joint venture at 227 Ossington.

The Saint promises to be a "gastro pub-cum-neighbourhood bar," offering classic comfort foods and traditional cocktails, with all-day weekend brunches and no pretence, said entrepreneur Mr. King, who is also chair of Fashion Cares and a self-styled "international bon vivant."

"It's not like King Street, where it's a group of well-liquored-up guys and girls moving from one establishment to another. That's not what Ossington's about. It's about a mixture of great little restaurants and cafés and a couple of fun bars, and now this."

As for the Baby Dolls strip club upstairs, Mr. King would neither confirm nor deny suggestions that the group has plans for the space. (The Baby Dolls sign has found a good home at Painted Lady.) But, according to local rumours, patrons could soon find themselves ushered into a plush, chandelier-draped realm where Studio 54 meets Coyote Ugly meets Dita Von Teese.

Mr. King, a charming New Zealander who last year sold his stake in the Kontent Group publishing business, likens Ossington Avenue to New York's Meatpacking District at the infancy of its popularity.

"Ossington is really the next hottest thing in this city," he said. "It used to be considered lower socio-economic. That's changed dramatically in the last few years. ... Its ascent has just started."

The strip's continued meteoric rise still surprises locals, who keep waiting for things to calm down as throngs of locals, cross-town tourists and 905ers cram their venues on weekends. They're not scared of the new developments. On the contrary, most business owners welcome them.

Michael Homewood converted a Vietnamese karaoke joint into a cozy, 40-capacity bar, Baby Huey, in 2007, and said there's plenty of room for new businesses. "I'm like, the more the merrier," he said. "The crowd in that neighbourhood is very eclectic. That's what I like about it. ... As long as everybody that owns a bar cares about the neighbourhood ..."

At the Dakota Tavern, manager Jesse Doucette just returned from six months in Australia to find an explosion of new bars and restaurants on the street, with more to come.

He welcomes the new arrivals - at least, those that aim to become local haunts instead of flashy spectacles - because they boost business for everyone else. "Especially with hipsterism running rampant in this area, I think a burlesque thing would do well, at least for a while," Mr. Doucette said.

Kitty-corner to the Dakota is the long-time local, The Communist's Daughter, tucked around the corner on Dundas and marked by the previous store's Nazaré Snack Bar sign.

At six years old, the tiny bar is venerable by Ossington standards. Co-owner Paul Emery is equally magnanimous about the "phenomenal" number of new arrivals. "My only fear would be that it turns into some kind of Entertainment District. I just want the quality to stay high," Mr. Emery said.

As for the Save Ossington bid, he's not quite so understanding. "Save it from what?" he said, puzzlement creeping into his voice. "I can see if some big chains started moving in, but right now it's just been small independent businesses really. I don't know what you'd be saving it from."
 

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